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Monday 26 November 2007

Watches Learning Guide

Watches Learning Guide

12-Hour Recorder (or Register):

A 12-hour recorder (or register) is a sub dial on a chronograph that can record time periods of up to 12 hours.

30-Minute Recorder (or Register):

A 30-minute recorder (or register) is a sub dial on a chronograph (see "chronograph") that can record time periods of up to 30 minutes.

Acrylic Crystal:

Sometimes referred to as Hesolite, an acrylic crystal is made up of plastic composite that is generally less expensive and less durable than a sapphire or a mineral crystal. Its flexible, malleable make up means it will not shatter on impact. It also produces fewer glares under bright lights and can be easily polished.

Alarm:

An alarm is a device that makes an alerting sound at a preset time. Alarm watches can be either Quartz or mechanical.

Altimeter:

An altimeter is a function that shows altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure. Altimeters are commonly found in pilot watches or inside a pressurized airplane cabin.

Analog Watch:

An analog watch has a dial, hands, numbers, or other types of markers that present a total display of 12 hours.

Analog-Digital Display:

An analog-digital display watch shows the time by means of hands (analog display) as well as by numbers (digital display). The analog display has a traditional dial with hour, minute, and sometimes second hands. The digital display shows the time in Arabic numerals with a liquid crystal display. This feature is usually found on sport watches.

Annual Calendar:

A watch showing the day, date, month, and 24 hours, adjusting automatically for short and long months is called an annual calendar watch. The calendar needs setting only once a year between the end of February and the first of March.

Aperture:

Apertures (montres à guichet in French) are small openings carved into the watch that display certain indications such as the date or hour. Such apertures may only be visible when the watch dials are at certain positions.

Atmosphere (Atm):

Atmosphere (Atm) measures the normal pressure of the air at sea level; it is used in watch making to indicate water resistance.

Atomic Time Standard:

Provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division in Boulder, Colorado, atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles mercury. The result is extremely accurate time that can be measured on instruments. Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout North America enabling some atomic watches to correct themselves to the exact time.

Automatic Movement / Automatic Winding (also called self-winding):

Mechanically powered automatic movement or automatic winding watches are wound by the motion of the wearer's arm rather than by turning the winding stem. In response to this motion, a rotor turns and winds the watch's mainspring so that it keeps accurate time. Most automatic watches have up to 36 hours of power reserve. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will need to be wound by hand to restart again.

Battery End-Of-Life Indicator (EOL):

The battery end-of-life indicator function signals an impending battery failure in a Quartz watch by means of the second hand jumping in two- or four-second intervals. The watch has approximately two weeks before battery failure.

Battery-less Quartz:

These modern timepieces use hybrid technology so that they can run smoothly without manual winding. These watches use movement powered from a small, electrical generator. Energy is stored in a rechargeable battery or similar device in order to keep the watch running properly. Commonly known under proprietary names such as Kinetic (Seiko), Omega-matic (Omega), and Auto Quartz (Invicta), battery-less Quartz watches function like automatic watches and must be worn regularly to maintain their electrical power reserve.

Bezel:

Generically, the bezel refers to the upper part of the watch body. Specifically, it usually refers to a ring that goes around the outside of the crystal. On jewelry watches, for instance, the bezel may contain a ring of diamonds. On sports watches, the bezel may show calibrated markings and have the ability to rotate in one or two directions.

Bidirectional Rotating Bezel:

A bidirectional rotating bezel can be moved either clockwise or counterclockwise and is usually used for mathematical calculations or for keeping track of elapsed time.

Cabochon:

Decorative in its purpose, a cabochon indicates a smooth round or oval, convex-shaped polished gemstone set in the watch crown.

Case or Watchcase:

The case or watchcase refers to the metal housing that contains the internal parts of a watch. Most cases are made up of stainless steel but titanium, gold, silver, and platinum are also used.

Case Diameter:

On Amazon.com, the case diameter is an approximate watch measurement that includes the crown. (Some watch merchandisers do not include the crown in this measurement.

Chronograph:

A chronograph is a multifunction sport watch with a stopwatch function. Most have two or three sub dials or mini dials for measuring minutes and hours. When used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch dial it can perform many different functions, such as determining speed or distance (see "tachometer" and "telemeter"). Some chronographs can time more than one event simultaneously (see "fly back hand" and "split seconds hand"). Chronograph Rattrapante: The addition of a fly back hand (rattrapante) on a watch significantly increases the potential uses for chronographs, making it possible to measure split-seconds of time or simultaneous events of unequal durations.

Chronometer:

This term refers to a precision watch that is tested in various temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy standards set by C.O.S.C. in Switzerland. These watches are provided with a chronometer certificate detailing specific test results.

Countdown Timer:

The countdown timer is a function that lets the wearer monitor how many hours, minutes, or seconds have elapsed from a preset time. Some countdown timers sound a warning signal a few seconds before the time runs out. These are useful in sporting events such as races.

Crown:

The crown, often referred to as the winding crown or winder, is used for winding a manual watch, for setting the hands to the correct time, and for setting the date in calendar-equipped watches. On diving/sports models, the crown may screw down onto a threaded tube, which protrudes from the watch case to better ensure superior water resistance.

Crystal:

The covering of the watch dial is called the crystal. Three types of crystals commonly used in watches are: acrylic, mineral, and sapphire. Acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out. Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated to create an unusual hardness that helps resist scratches. Sapphire is the most expensive and durable crystal, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare, for instance.

Crystal Skeleton Caseback:

A crystal skeleton caseback is made of transparent material such as hardened mineral or sapphire crystal that reveals the intricate mechanical movements of the watch.

Cyclops (Magnified Window):

A Cyclops (or magnified window) is a small window or lens in the crystal that is added to magnify the date to two and a half times for enhanced readability.

Deployment Buckle (Foldover):

A deployment buckle, also known as a foldover, is a three-folding enclosure that secures the two ends of the bracelet allowing enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism.

Depth Alarm:

Divers wear depth alarm watches that sound when the wearer exceeds a preset depth level. In most watches, the alarm stops sounding when the diver ascends above the preset level.

Depth Sensor/Depth Meter:

Divers wear depth sensor or depth meter watches to determine their depth level by measuring water pressure. Readings may be shown using analog hands and a scale on the dial or on a digital display.

Diver's Watch:

Divers' watches traditionally feature a graduated rotating bezel, a screw-down winding crown, and a caseback; such watches must be water resistant to at least 200 meters (660 feet).

Dual Time:

The term dual time refers to a watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, sub dial, or other means.

Dual Time/Second Time Zone Bezel:

A dual time/second time zone contains a rotating bezel, which can be used to display a separate time zone distinct from that shown on the dial.

Elapsed Time:

Elapsed time refers to the actual amount of time it takes for an object to travel over a specified distance.

Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel:

A graduated rotating bezel (see "rotating bezel") is used to keep track of designated periods of time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero with the watch's seconds or minutes hand. The wearer can then read the elapsed time off the bezel instead of having to calculate the elapsed time.

Fly back:

A fly back is an additional hand on a chronograph that moves with the second hand but can be stopped independently to measure a preset interval of time. It can then "fly back" to catch up with the second hand. This feature is useful for capturing lap times as well as finish times.

GMT Time zone:

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), also known as Zulu Time, is set to the international clock in Greenwich, England. Through an additional hour hand, it reflects the world time on a 24-hour scale and is used by pilots across the globe.

Gold Plating:

The application of gold over the surface of an item is called gold plating.

Hand winding (Manual Mechanical):

A hand winding watch with a manual mechanical movement needs to be wound regularly by the wearer using the winding crown in order to keep accurate time. This motion winds the mainspring, which then releases its energy to power the watch.

Karat or K:

A karat is an indication of a metal’s purity, expressed as proportions of 1/24th of the pure metal used in the alloy. Metals such as gold are too soft in their pure state to use in jewelry, so they are typically made into an alloy for strength. 24K (equal to 24/24ths) is pure metal, and 18K is 18 parts pure metal mixed with 6 parts of other metals. That translates to 18/24=0.750, which is 75% pure or 750 parts per thousand.

Kinetic:

Referring to the Seiko line of Kinetic watches, this innovative technology has a Quartz movement that does not use a battery. Movement of the wearer’s wrist charges a very efficient capacitor that powers the Quartz movement. Once the capacitor is fully charged, men’s models will store energy for 7-14 days without being worn and ladies’ models will store energy for 3-7 days. The watch alerts the wearer to a low capacitor charge when the second hand starts to move in two-second intervals.

Lap Memory:

Some Quartz sport watches are built with a lap memory which enables the watch to store the times of laps in a race determined by the lap timer (see "lap timer"). The wearer can recall these times on a digital display by pushing a button.

Lap Timer:

A lap timer is a chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, the wearer stops the timer, which then returns to zero in order to begin timing the next lap.

LCD Display (Liquid Crystal Display):

An LCD display shows the time electronically by means of a liquid held in a thin layer between two transparent plates. It follows from the earlier LED or Light Emitting Diode display of the first Quartz digital watches. The LCD is preferred as it uses vastly less power enabling the time to be shown constantly instead of only when pressing a display button.

Magnified Window (Cyclops):

A magnified window, also known as a cyclops, is a small window or lens in the crystal that magnifies the date two and a half times.

Manual Winding:

Manual winding refers to a watch with a manual mechanical movement, which needs to be wound by the winding crown. This motion winds the mainspring up which then releases its energy to power the watch.

Mechanical Movement:

A watch’s mechanical movement is based on a mainspring, which, slowly unwinds in a steady motion to provide accurate timekeeping. As opposed to a manual mechanical watch, which needs to be wound on a consistent basis, an automatic mechanical watch requires no winding because its rotor winds the mainspring when the wearer moves their wrist (see the section on automatic watch maintenance for more details).

Military or 24 Hour Time:

When time is measured in 24-hour segments it is called military time. To convert 12-hour time to 24-hour time, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24-hour time to 12-hour time, subtract 12 from 13 to 24.

Mineral Crystal:

Mineral crystal is made from what is essentially a form of glass. More scratch resistant than acrylic, a mineral crystal will scratch and is extremely difficult to polish.

Moon Phase:

The moon phase is an indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

Mother-of-Pearl:

Mother-of-pearl refers to the iridescent milky interior shell of the freshwater mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink, and salmon.

Movement:

Movement refers to the means by which a watch keeps time and often includes the power source. For example, a watch with mechanical movement uses a spinning balance wheel powered by a tightly wound spring. A watch with Quartz movement measures the vibrations in a piece of Quartz and often is powered by a battery.

Pedometer:

Responding to the impact of the wearer's steps, a pedometer counts the number of strides a wearer takes.

Perpetual Calendar:

A perpetual calendar adjusts automatically to account for different lengths of months (30 or 31 days) and leap years. Perpetual calendars, which can be powered by Quartz or mechanical movements, are programmed to be accurate until the year 2100.

Power Reserve Indicator:

A power reserve indicator is a feature that shows when the watch will need a new battery or winding. A battery reserve indicator on a Quartz watch informs the wearer when the battery is low. Often this is indicated by the second’s hand moving at two- or three-second intervals. Seiko's Kinetic watches are Quartz watches that do not have a battery (see Kinetic). When a Seiko Kinetic needs to be wound, the seconds hand will also move in two-second intervals.

Power Reserve:

A power reserve measures the amount of time a watch will run after being fully powered or wound, with no additional power input. Normally, a mechanical watch that is fully wound or a Quartz watch with a new battery has a full power reserve. Many modern mechanical watches have a power reserve of 40 hours. Power reserve also applies to battery-less Quartz watches, which may have power reserves from 40 hours to 6 months. On battery-operated Quartz watches, the term power reserve is sometimes used to refer to the expected battery life--typically 12 to 32 months.

Pulsimeter:

A pulsimeter is the scale on a chronograph watch for measuring pulse rate.

Push-Piece:

The term push-piece refers to a button that is pressed to work a mechanism. Push-pieces are usually found on chronographs, striking watches, and alarms.

Quartz:

A Quartz is a caliber that uses the vibrations of a tiny crystal to maintain timing accuracy. The power comes from a battery that must be replaced about every 2-3 years. In recent years, new Quartz technology enables the watch to recharge itself without battery replacement. This power is generated via movement similar to an automatic mechanical watch, or powered by light through a solar cell (Kinetic & solar-tech).

Ratchet Bezel Ring:

A ratchet bezel ring can either turn one way (counter clockwise) or both ways and generally clicks into place.

Rattrapante Chronograph:

The addition of a fly back hand (rattrapante) significantly increases the potential uses for chronographs. It makes possible the measurement of split-second times or timing simultaneous events of unequal duration.

Register:

The register is another name for a sub dial that is usually found within the watch’s main dial. An example is a chronograph where there are registers for the chronograph minutes and hours. Some watches have registers with pointers showing the day and date.

Repeater:

A repeater is a device that chimes the time when the wearer pushes a button. Some repeaters, called "quarter repeaters" sound the hours and the quarter hours by means of two different pitched tones. Others called "five minute repeaters" sound the hours, quarters, and five minute periods while "minute repeaters" sound the hours, quarters, and minutes.

Retrograde:

Retrograde is used to describe a pointer-hand on a watch dial (often called a sub dial), which returns to zero at the end of a set period. For example, a watch may have retrograde date where the hand moves up a scale, pointing to the current date - when it reaches 31 it will spring back to 1.

Rhodium Plated:

Rhodium plated is the protective coating of metal with a thin layer of rhodium. It is a hard, brittle metal that does not oxidize and is malleable only when red hot.

Rotating Bezel:

A rotating bezel (the ring surrounding the watch dial) that can be turned in order to perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions.

Rotor:

A rotor is the part of an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch that uses movement to wind the mainspring. It is a flat piece of metal, usually shaped like a semicircle, which swivels on a pivot with the motion of the wearer's arm.

Sapphire Crystal:

Synthetically formed, the sapphire crystal of a watch is extremely scratch resistant (nine on the Moh scale) and is the material of choice for many watch collectors. The downsides are that the sapphire can chip at the edges if it protrudes and it can shatter.

Sapphlex Crystal (Seiko Watches):

Sapphlex crystal (found on Seiko watches) is a highly scratch resistant crystal created by the fusion of sapphire and mineral glass crystal.

Screw-Down Locking Crown:

A screw-down locking crown aids water resistance by sealing the crown to the case of the watch. A seal is achieved when the case locks with the crown's internal threads and gaskets fastening the crown into its place.

Second Time Zone Indicator:

The second time zone indicator is an additional dial that can be set to another time zone. It lets the wearer keep track of local time and the time in another country simultaneously.

Self-Winding:

Self-winding refers to a mechanically powered watch that is wound by the motion of the wearer's arm rather than by turning the winding stem (manual mechanical). In response to this motion, a rotor turns and winds the watch's mainspring. Most automatic watches have up to 36 hours of power reserve. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will need to be wound by hand to get started again.

Shock Resistance:

As defined by U.S. government regulation, shock resistance is a watch's ability to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto a wooden floor from a height of three feet.

Slide Rule Bezel:

A slide rule bezel is a rotating bezel or ring around the outside edge of the watchcase that displays a logarithmic or other scale. It is used to perform general mathematical calculations or navigational computations.

Solar Powered:

Solar powered refers to a type of Quartz movement where the batteries are recharged via solar panels on the watch dial. They have a power reserve so they can run in the dark.

Solar Tech:

Solar tech is a solar powered Quartz watch. This technology provides the accuracy of Quartz, without the inconvenience and cost of regular battery changes.

Split Second:

A split second is a feature on a chronograph that is two hands: one is a fly back and the other is a regular hand. In order to time laps or different finishing times, the wearer can stop the fly back hand independently while the regular hand keeps moving.

Stainless Steel:

Stainless steel is an extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration, and corrosion. It can be highly polished, thus resembling a precious metal. Stainless steel is often used on the backs of watchcases that are made of other metals. A metal of choice, stainless steel is used to make high quality watchcases and bracelets. It is also hypoallergenic because it doesn't contain nickel.

Sterling Silver:

Sterling silver, a precious metal, refers to silver that is 92.5 percent pure. The silver fineness should be stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by the initials of a designer or the country of origin as a hallmark. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnishing.

Stopwatch:

A stopwatch with a second hand measures intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the stopwatch function and the timepiece are referred to as a "chronograph."

Sub dial:

A sub dial is a small dial used for several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph, or to indicate the date.

Swiss A.O.S.C. (Certificate of Origin):

The Swiss A.O.S.C. is a mark identifying a watch that is assembled in Switzerland with components of Swiss origin. It is primarily used in Bedat watches.

Tachometer (Tachymeter):

A tachometer is an instrument for measuring speed or units. In watch making, a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial shows speed in kilometers per hour or some other unit (see timer).

Tank Watch:

A tank watch is a rectangular watch with heavier bars on either side of the dial. It was inspired by the tank tracks of World War I and was first created by Louis Cartier.

Tantalum:

Tantalum is a metal with a texture similar to titanium, but a color similar to gold. This metal is used by Omega for the gold-like trim on certain titanium watches. Many of these watches are also available in titanium with real gold trim.

Telemeter:

A telemeter is a watch function that finds the distance of an object from the wearer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance. Like a tachometer, a telemeter consists of a stopwatch function and a special indication on the dial of a chronograph.

Timer:

A timer is an instrument used for registering intervals of time without displaying the time of day.

Titanium:

Titanium is a "space age" metal, often having a silver-gray appearance. Because it is 30 percent stronger and nearly 50 percent lighter than steel, it has been increasingly used in watch making, especially sport watch styles. Its resistance to salt water corrosion makes it particularly useful in divers’ watches. Since it can be scratched easily, some manufacturers use a patented, scratch-resistant coating. Titanium is also hypoallergenic.

Tonneau Watch:

A tonneau watch has a barrel-shaped watchcase and two convex sides.

Totalizer:

A totalizer is a mechanism that keeps track of elapsed time and displays it usually on the watch’s sub dial. It is sometimes called a "recorder" or "register." The term "totalizer" can be used more generally to refer to any counter on a watch.

Unidirectional Rotating Bezel:

The unidirectional rotating bezel, or an elapsed time rotating bezel, moves only in a counterclockwise direction and is often found on divers’ watches. It is designed to prevent divers from overestimating their remaining air supply. Because the bezel only moves in one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety when timing the dive. Many such bezels are ratcheted, so that they lock into place for greater safety.

Water Resistance:

Water resistance describes the level of protection a watch has from water damage. See the "water resistance" section for a description of the different levels.

Waterproof:

Waterproof means the ability to completely exclude the possibility of water entering into any working portion of a watch. According to the Federal Trade Commission, no watch is fully 100 percent waterproof and no manufacturer that sells watches in the U.S. may label any of their watches as "waterproof." The FTC stipulates that watches be referred to as "water resistant."

Winding Stem:

The winding stem button resides on the right side of the watchcase and is used to wind the mainspring; it is also called a "crown."

Winding:

Winding refers to the tightening of the watch’s mainspring. This can be done by hand (by the crown) or automatically (by a rotor, which swings due to movements from the wearer's arm).

World Time Dial:

A world time dial, usually found on the outer edge of the watch face, tells the time in up to 24 time zones around the world. The time zones are represented by the names of cities printed on the bezel or dial. The hour hand points to a city along a set scale enabling the wearer to determine the time zone.. Watches with this feature are called "world timers."

Yacht Timer:

A timer that sounds warning signals during the countdown.

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Friday 7 September 2007

Diamond Information

The Diamond is the birthstone of April and the anniversary gemstone for the 10th and 60th years of marriage. Diamonds were discovered in India in 500 B.C., and the name "diamond" comes from the Greek word "Adamas" which means unconquerable - suggesting the eternity of love. Since ancient Greece, diamonds and diamond jewelry have been the traditional symbol of love, and the ancients believed they were hardened dew drops, splinters from the stars or crystallized lightning. A diamond is the hardest substance known to humankind, and is made of a crystallized carbon that has unique powers of light reflection. Since diamonds are composed of a single element, they are the purest of all gemstones.


The Structure of a Diamond
Proportion refers to the angles and relative measurements of a polished diamond. More than any other feature, proportions determine a diamond's optical properties. Studies have shown that table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth have a dramatic effect on a diamond's appearance.

Symmetry is a grading term for the exactness of shape and placement of facets. Variations in symmetry include off-center culets and tables, poor facet alignment, misshapen facets, out-of-round girdles, and wavy girdles.


Reflection Refraction Dispersion

A) When a ray of light touches the surface of a diamond, part of the light is reflected back, this is external reflection.

B) The rest of the ray penetrates the stone and is then reflected toward the center of the diamond. This is known as refraction.

C) The ray of light is reflected to the surface, where it is seen as the colors of the spectrum. This is known as dispersion.



The Value of a Diamond: The Four C's

Shape (Cut)

The Cut is the factor that determines the brilliance of a diamond. A classic round brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets : 33 on the top, 24 on the bottom, and the culet (1 point at the bottom). Each of the diamond's facets must be placed in exact geometric relation to one another when the stone is being cut. Quality diamonds must be properly cut and not "spread", which means that the proper proportions are compromised to make the diamond weigh more.

Clarity

Diamond Clarity
The Clarity of a diamond is based on the number, location, size, and type of inclusions found in the stone. An inclusion is an imperfection or trace mineral in the stone that is visible under the magnification of a jeweler's loupe. The fewer inclusions the diamond has; the clearer, more brilliant and more expensive the diamond will be. A "Flawless" diamond is one that has no inclusions and is extremely rare and valuable.


COLOR

Colorless and near-colorless diamonds are the most valuable. Though most diamonds may appear colorless to the naked eye, the majority of diamonds contain slight traces of yellow or light brown when viewed under a jeweler's loupe. Depending on the stone's size, a single increase in color grade can boost the value of a diamond by thousands of dollars per carat. A traditional engagement diamond is usually colorless or near-colorless.

In nature, diamonds can also occur in shades of red, pink, blue, green and deep yellow - These are called "Fancy diamonds". In the United States and around the world colorless diamonds are graded on an alphabetical scale, introduced by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). "Colorless" or "rare white" diamonds are of color grades D, E and F. Diamonds of color grade D are very rare, and extremely valuable.


Carat Weight

The weight of a diamond is measured in carats (ct.). Each carat is divided into 100 points. For example: 1ct.= 100 points, 1/2 ct. = 50 points. Points in a fraction are measured within acceptable ranges. For example: a 1/2 ct diamond pendant may have a range of + or - .06 points. In other words, the total diamond weight may vary from .44 to .56 points and still be considered a 1/2 carat. Here are the most popular carat fractions and their approximate decimal equivalents:
1/10 - .08 - .12
1/5 - .17 - .23
1/4 - .21 - .29
1/3 - .27 - .39
1/2 - .44 - .56
3/4 - .69 - .81
1.0 - .94 - 1.06
11/4 - 1.18 - 1.32
11/2 - 1.43 - 1.57
The carat weight alone is almost meaningless unless you also consider the cut, clarity and color of the diamond. A large diamond is not very valuable if it lacks brilliance, purity and high-grade color. However, since larger stones are rarer than smaller ones, diamond value rises exponentially with carat weight. Therefore, a diamond weighing 3.0 carats, will always be worth more than three 1.0 carat stones of the same quality. No two diamonds are exactly alike, and you must weigh all of the factors - color, cut, clarity and carat weight - when making your diamond jewelry buying decision.


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TOP JEWELRY TRENDS

Here are the top trends in jewelry design, according to industry experts:

    Diamond
  • Stars and astral themes, animal and nature themes.
  • Soft, fluid shapes and small stones.
  • Playing around with different textures and finishes.
  • More white gold or silver jewelry, especially mixed with yellow gold.
  • Flush setting. Once a designer only fashion, now it’s everywhere.
    Gold
  • Nature-inspired designs in 14k and 18k.
  • Earrings dangling with balls, beads, strands or fringes.
  • Colors and textures, especially with enamel and colored gems.
  • Multiple strand links and combination bangle/link bracelets.
    Pearl
  • Mabe earrings.
  • High-quality Chinese freshwater pearls, mostly in twists.
  • Jewelry using one South Sea pearl as a focal point, especially necklaces of gold or gold wire, with diamonds or colored stones.
  • Blister pearls used in pendants and brooches.
  • Longer strands (32 to 80), most often in baroque pearls to offer more affordability.
  • Pearl bracelets with two to five strands, with and without gold bars.
    Gemstone
  • Cabochons — now so popular that facet-quality material is being cut cabochon.
  • Cabs in unusual shapes such as tongue, sugarloaf or bullet, double cabs and various outline shapes.
  • Pink gold jewelry with gemsstones.
  • ‘60s colors, especially peridot, as a result of strong yellow-green in the fashion color palette in recent years.
  • More widespread use of materials such as agates and chalcedony due to growing consumer acceptance and a need for lower price points.
  • Color combinations as a design element.
    Platinum
  • Platinum and 18k gold combinations.
  • Different finishes: polished matte and etched.
  • An increase of affordable platinum mesh jewelry.
    Silver
  • Neo-Victorian Jewelry; i.e. delicate designs, oxidized silver, cameos and intaglios.
  • Western, Native Americas themes.
  • Scatter pins, cufflinks.
  • Textured, matte silver with 14k, 18k, 22 and 24k gold accents.
  • Silver jewelry and pearls.
  • Belt buckles. Jewelry designers are entering the silver belt buckle market very successfully.
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Jewelry Articles

PINS, BRACELETS AND RINGS.


Pins, bracelets and rings depend less on the size and shape of the wearer than do necklaces and earrings. Virtually any woman can find something that will fit. But, as with all jewelry or clothing, hard-and-fast rules are anything but, and the most important element is proportion. For rings, consider the size and shape of your hands. Large rings for large women and small rings for small women. But what if you want exactly the opposite?

Try to find a delicate style of ring in a design proportion that doesn’t get lost on a heavy hand; try to get a scaled-down but still dramatic version of a ring for a petite hand. For a woman with ugly knuckles, a fairly simple ring that does not call attention to your presentation will do. And consider the skin tone when selecting metals and gemstones.

Bracelets flatter just about every woman if they fit correctly. A large-wristed woman needs a larger bracelet that moves freely. Incidentally, a few dramatic bracelets are a terrific, elegant way for a large woman to accessorize for cocktails or an evening dinner. A petite woman may be able to carry off dramatic bracelets, as long as they don’t fall off. Nothing detracts as much from the look of a bracelet as the need to keep fiddling with it all day.

Pins, however, are probably the one jewelry accessory any woman can wear anywhere. Simply by moving or turning the same pin, a woman can get a different look, draw the eye to a different place or make a different statement. Metal and gemstone colors should be considered, but are less crucial than in other types of jewelry because the wearer can move a pin farther from her face or other part of her body.

Tips: Wedding Jewelry

For the Bride

The bride's jewelry, along with her other accessories, as a general rule should reflect the formality of the wedding celebration. A small, informal wedding calls for simple jewelry, while a large, formal wedding calls for more elaborate jewelry.

The style of the bridal gown also plays a major roll in the selection of jewelry. Many of today's most popular gowns are strapless or have low necklines. This is a perfect style to showcase a wonderful necklace and earrings. Gowns with high necklines may be better of to forgo the necklace and concentrate on the perfect earrings.

As a general rule to more glitter and detailing on the gown the simpler the jewelry, while a more plain gown can support more decorative selections.

Necklace Length

The various lengths of necklaces include the, choker, the collar, princess, matinee, and opera lengths. In general you may want to follow these guidelines in selection of the necklace length to best flatter your gowns neckline:

The Choker: One to three strands worn close around the neck is the most classic version and works well with a jewel or bateau neckline. If too much skin is showing it may get lost.

The Collar: Made up of three or more strands that fit securely around the middle neck. This Victorian style looks lovely with a plunging or strapless neckline.

The Princess: Perfect for strapless gowns, this length falls below the hollow of the neck in front -- perfect support for a pendant. This style is most often 16" looks great with almost every bridal gown neckline, except a high neckline.

The Matinee: Longer than the Princess but shorter than the Opera, this style hits the top of the bust and looks great with a bateau, jewel, or a lower neckline with sheer fabric covering the décolletage area. It shouldn't hit the top of the dress because then the necklace and the dress are fighting for attention.

The Opera: This long single strand falls below the bust and looks classic with a very high neckline. Not often a good choice for bridal gowns or bridesmaid dresses.

Other things to consider
  • Keep your earrings simple if your necklace is large or grand.
  • Bracelets can be worn with sleeveless, short-sleeve, and three-quarter sleeve gowns. It is possible to combine a bracelet with gloves as a dramatic accessory worn over tight-fitted gloves, but not many feel comfortable with this look.
  • A watch can be worn if it is an unusual antique or family heirloom, but most watches are not appropriate wedding jewelry for the bride or the bridesmaids.
Choice of Earring

Keep this in mind when selecting earring styles:

  • A button earring accentuates a round face.
  • A dangle earring widens a narrow face.
  • A squared earring adds interest to a long face.
  • If you are wearing a Tiara you may not want to wear earrings.
  • If you are not wearing a necklace you may want your earrings to be larger. It is all a matter of balance.
Wearing a Tiara

Want to feel like a princess?! Spend your special day crowned by a glittering tiara. But consider keeping the other jewelry simple, small pearl earrings and a simple necklace or let your tiara be the point of focus and leave off any extra jewelry.

Appropriate Jewelry for Bridesmaids

Most bridesmaid ensembles can be enhanced with earrings and perhaps a necklace or bracelet. All bridesmaids should wear jewelry that is the same color and style. It can match or contrast with the color of the dress. We recommend that you keep the bridal party jewelry simple, yet elegant. Jewelry is a great gift for the bride to consider giving her bridesmaid, and maid of honor and by doing so you can control the total look the day of the wedding.

The Type of Jewelry Most Often Selected For Weddings

Brides have worn pearls for centuries as a symbol of purity and perfection. In ancient Rome, the pearl was the ultimate symbol of wealth and social standing, while the ancient Greeks associated the pearl with love, marriage, and unrivaled beauty. The Greeks also believed the pearl would promote marital harmony.

Today's modern brides often includes rhinestones, diamonds faux diamonds, sometimes called CZ's, crystals, gemstones and or a combination of them all in their wedding jewelry. It's really a matter of personal style and budget.

The important thing is to make sure your jewelry does not over power the dress and that the color works with the gown. For example a white bridal gown looks best with white pearls and silver. An ivory gown looks better with ivory pearls and gold. A pale pink or beige tone gown looks best with ivory and gold accents or faux gemstones that match or are slightly lighter. Rhinestones, crystals, diamonds, or faux diamonds (CZs) can work with all gown colors but it is best to use a silver setting with white and a gold setting with other gown colors. Of course, all rules are made to be broken so what makes you feel the most
special

Handmade jewelry

Handmade jewelry is that which is crafted by hand, just as jewelry has been since it was very first created by humans. Unlike modern machine-made jewelry, no two pieces of handmade jewelry - even of the same design - will be identical.

Many artists who handmake jewelry use no pre-made or fabricated parts at all, even creating their own findings, such as ear hoops and hooks, brooch pins, clasps and more. But, the term handmade includes all jewelry where assembly is done by hand, regardless of whether the designer uses pre-fabricated parts. What makes handmade jewelry special is not only that so much care is put into the creation of each piece but also that each design will be original and unique.

Much handmade jewelry is created using age-old metalsmithing techniques such as forging, raising, chasing, soldering and more to create complex forms in various types of precious and other metals. Metals may also be etched, engraved or coloured using a wide variety of techniques.

However, a great deal of handmade jewelry is created without utilising even these techniques. Instead many jewelry makers create pieces entirely by hand with the assistance of basic hand tools, for instance wrapping gemstones and beads in wire or creating simple strands of beads for necklaces or bracelets.

Handmade jewelry makers utilize many types of metals and gemstones in their work, from goldbronze, diamonds to cubic zirconia. Many contemporary jewelry artists make use of even more diverse materials such as paper, textiles, plastics and much more. to

Jewelry made by the world's most renowned independent goldsmiths, desginers and gem carvers now competes with major brands as a way to distinguish oneself. While even the most simple handmade jewelry is competing with cheap mass-produced jewelry because of its uniqueness and often the originality of the designers.

There are several big awards that particularly recognise jewelry designers who create and design their own jewelry. Awards that particularly recognise such designers are the "American Gem Trade Association"; the "BundesVerband der Edelstein und Diamantindustrie" in Gem Center Idar Oberstein, and even the "De Beers Awards" are handed sometimes exclusive handmade jewelry designs.


Wednesday 5 September 2007

New List of gemstones

A number of gemstones have gained fame, either because of their size and beauty or because of the people who owned or wore them. A list of famous gemstones follows

  • Aquamarines
  • Diamonds
  • Emeralds
  • Opals
  • Pearl
  • Ruby
  • Sapphires
  • Spinels
  • Topaz
================================================
Aquamarines

-The Giant Aquamarine

Diamonds
A number of large or extraordinarily colored diamonds have gained fame, both as exquisite examples of the beautiful nature of diamonds, and because of the famous people who wore, bought, and sold them. A partial list of famous diamonds in history follows.

  • The Allnatt Diamond, a large Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond
  • The Centenary Diamond, the world's largest colorless (grade D), flawless diamond
  • The Cullinan Diamond, the largest rough gem-quality diamond ever found at 3106.75 carats (621.35 g). It was cut into 105 diamonds including the Cullinan I or the Great Star of Africa, 530.2 carats (106.04 g), and the Cullinan II or the Lesser Star of Africa, 317.4 carats (63.48 g).
  • The Darya-ye Noor Diamond, the best known diamond of the Iranian Crown Jewels
  • The Deepdene, widely considered to be the largest irradiated diamond in the world
  • The De Young Red Diamond, the third-largest known Fancy Vivid Red
  • The Dresden Green Diamond - its colour is the result of natural irradiation
  • The Dudley Diamond
  • The Eugenie Blue Diamond
  • The Excelsior Diamond, the largest known diamond in the world prior to the Cullinan
  • The Florentine Diamond, a lost diamond, light yellow with a weight of 137.27 carats (27.45 g).
  • The Golden Jubilee, the largest faceted diamond ever cut at 545.67 carats (109.13 g)
  • The Great Chrysanthemum Diamond
  • The Great Mogul Diamond
  • The Heart of Eternity Diamond, perhaps the largest Fancy Vivid Blue
  • The Hope Diamond, blue and supposedly cursed. Almost certainly cut from the French Blue Diamond
  • The Hortensia Diamond
  • The Idol's Eye
  • The Incomparable Diamond, a golden diamond of 407.48 carats (81.496 g) cut from an 890 carat (178 g) rough diamond of the same name - it appeared on eBay in 2002
  • The Jones Diamond
  • The Jubilee Diamond, originally known as the Reitz Diamond; the sixth largest in the world.
  • The Kimberley Diamond
  • The Koh-i-Noor, very old (mentioned in Baburnama of 1526) and surrounded by legend and believed to be the most precious.
  • The Lesotho Promise, is the 15th largest diamond, the 10th largest white diamond, and the largest diamond to be found in 13 years
  • The Millennium Star, the second largest colorless (grade D), flawless diamond.
  • Moussaieff Red Diamond, the largest known Fancy Vivid Red
  • The Nizam Diamond
  • The Ocean Dream Diamond, the only known natural Fancy Deep Blue-Green
  • The Oppenheimer Diamond, one of the largest uncut diamonds in the world
  • The Orlov, an Indian rose cut rumored to have served as the eye of a Hindu statue
  • The Paragon Diamond
  • The Portuguese Diamond
  • The Premier Rose Diamond, 137.02 carat (27.4 g) stone cut from a 353.9 carat (70.8 g) rough gem of the same name
  • The Pumpkin Diamond, perhaps the largest Fancy Vivid Orange
  • The Red Cross Diamond
  • The Regent Diamond, formerly belonging to Louis XV, Louis XVI and Napoleon Bonaparte, it now resides in the Louvre
  • The Sancy, a pale yellow diamond currently in the Louvre
  • The Shah Diamond, very old yellow diamond (found approximately in 1450 in India) currently housed in the Diamond Fund in Kremlin
  • The Spirit of de Grisogono Diamond, the world's largest cut Black
  • The Spoonmaker's Diamond, 86 carat (17 g) diamond housed in Topkapı Palace in Istanbul.
  • The Star of Arkansas
  • The Star of the East, 95 carat (19 g) stone once owned by Mrs Evalyn McLean of Washington DC, who also owned the Hope Diamond
  • The Star of the South
  • The Steinmetz Pink Diamond, the largest known Fancy Vivid Pink
  • The Taylor-Burton Diamond
  • The Tiffany Diamond
  • The Uncle Sam Diamond, the largest discovered in the United States
  • The Vargas
Emeralds
  • The Chalk Emerald
  • The Duke of Devonshire Emerald
  • The Gachala Emerald
  • The Mackay Emerald
Opals
  • The Andamooka Opal, presented to Queen Elizabeth II, also known as the Queen's Opal
  • The Aurora Australis Opal, considered to be the most valuable black opal
  • The Black Prince Opal, originally known as Harlequin Prince
  • The Empress of Australia Opal
  • The Fire Queen Opal
  • The Flame Queen Opal
  • The Flamingo Opal
  • The Halley's Comet Opal, the world's largest uncut black opal
  • The Jupiter Five Opal
  • The Olympic Australis Opal, reported to be the largest and most valuable gem opal ever found
  • The Pride of Australia Opal, also known as the Red Emperor Opal
  • The Red Admiral Opal, also known as the Butterfly Stone
Pearls
The Pearl of Lao Tzu

Ruby
  • The DeLong Star Ruby
  • The Hixon Ruby Crystal
  • The Midnight Star Ruby
  • The Neelanjali Ruby
  • The Rajaratna Ruby
  • The Rosser Reeves Ruby
Sapphires
  • The Logan sapphire
  • The Queen Marie of Romania Sapphire
  • The Ruspoli Sapphire
  • The Star of Asia Star Sapphire
  • The Star of Bombay, given to Mary Pickford by Douglas Fairbanks, Sr
  • The Star of India, the largest and most famous star sapphire in the world
  • The Stuart Sapphire
Spinels
  • The Black Prince's Ruby, actually a spinel mounted on the Imperial State Crown
  • The Samarian Spinel, the world's largest spinel
  • The Timur Ruby, believed to be a ruby until 1851
Topaz
  • The American Golden Topaz, the largest cut yellow topaz weighing nearly 23000 carats (4.6 kg).

Friday 31 August 2007

List of gemstones

There are over 130 species of minerals that have been cut into gemstones with 50 species in common use. These include:

  • Agate
  • Alexandrite and other varieties of chrysoberyl
  • Aquamarine and other varieties of beryl
  • Chrysocolla
  • Chrysoprase
  • Diamond
  • Emerald
  • Feldspar (moonstone)
  • Garnet
  • Hematite
  • Jade - jadeite and nephrite
  • Jasper
  • Kunzite
  • Lapis lazuli
  • Malachite
  • Obsidian
  • Olivine (Peridot)
  • Opal (Girasol)
  • Pyrite
  • Quartz and its varieties
    • Agate
    • Amethyst (cardinal gem)
    • Citrine
    • Chalcedony (bloodstone)
    • Tiger's-eye
  • Ruby
  • Sapphire
  • Spinel
  • Sugilite
  • Tanzanite and other varieties of zoisite
  • Topaz
  • Turquoise
  • Tourmaline
  • Variscite
  • Zircon

Minerals that infrequently occur in gem quality form:

  • Andalusite
  • Axinite
  • Benitoite
  • Bixbite (Red beryl)
  • Cassiterite
  • Clinohumite
  • Iolite
  • Onyx
  • Kornerupine
  • Natural moissanite
  • Zeolite (Thomsonite)

Artificial or synthetic materials used as gems include:

  • High-lead glass
  • Synthetic corundum
  • Synthetic cubic zirconia
  • Synthetic spinel
  • Synthetic moissanite

There are a number of organic materials used as gems, including:

  • Amber
  • Ammolite - from fossils formed from the shells of extinct ammonites.
  • Bone
  • Coral
  • Ivory
  • Jet (lignite)
  • Nacre (Mother of pearl)
  • Pearl

Gemstone





















A gemstone, gem or also called precious or semi-precious stone is a highly attractive and valuable piece of mineral, which — when cut and polished — is used in jewelry or other adornments.However certain rocks, (such as lapis-lazuli) and organic materials (such as amber or jet) are strictly speaking not minerals, but are still applied in jewelry and adornments, and are therefore often considered a gemstone as well. Some minerals that are too soft to be generally applied in jewelry may still be considered a gemstone because of their remarkable color, lustre or other physical properties that have aesthetic value. Rarity is another characteristic that lends value to a gemstone.

Characteristics and classification

Gemstones are described by gemologists using technical specifications. First, what is it made of, or its chemical composition. Diamonds for example are made of carbon (C) and rubies of aluminium oxide (Al2O3). Next, many gems are crystals which are classified by crystal systemcubic or trigonal or monoclinic. Another term used is habit, the form the gem is usually found in. For example diamonds, which have a cubic crystal system, are often found as octahedrons.
such as

Gems are classified into different groups, species, and varieties. For example, ruby is the red variety of the species corundum, while any other color of corundum is considered sapphire. Emerald (green), aquamarine (blue), bixbite (red), goshenite (colorless), heliodor (yellow), and morganite (pink) are all varieties of the mineral species beryl.

Gems have refractive index, dispersion, specific gravity, hardness, cleavage, fracture, and lustre. They may exhibit pleochroism or double refraction. They may have luminescence and a distinctive absorption spectrum.

Material or flaws within a stone may be present as inclusions. The gem may occur in certain locations, called the "occurrence."

Value

A valuable (colored) gemstone is prized especially for its great beauty, rarity or aesthetics. Although color plays a very important role in determining the value of a gemstone, many other factors influence its price as well: market supply (think of the fluctuations of Tanzanite prices), rarity (Red Beryl), popularity of a stone, market mechanisms etc.

An example of a gemstone for which high prices are determined, not by its rarity, but stability of the market, and also marketing and consumer perception as well, are diamonds.

Diamond is prized highly as a gemstone since it is the hardest naturally occurring substance known and is able to reflect light with fire and sparkle when faceted. However, diamonds are far from rare with millions of carats mined each year.

General physical characteristics that make a colored stone valuable are color, clarity to a lesser extent (emeralds will always have a number of inclusions), cut, unusual optical phenomenacolor zoning, and star effects. A factor which plays an important role in determining the value of colored stones, and which is not present in the same way as its determination in diamonds is what many dealers call "water". within the stone such as

Traditionally, common gemstones were classified into precious stones (cardinal gems) and semi-precious stones. The former category was largely determined by a history of ecclesiastical, devotional or ceremonial use and rarity. Only five types of gemstones were considered precious: diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, and amethyst. After the discoveries of bulk Amethyst in Brazil in the 19th century, Amethyst lost its place amongst the list of precious stones.

Nowadays such an approach is outdated amongst the present generation of jewelry designers, gemologists and gem dealers. Many gemstones are used in even the most expensive jewelry, depending on the brand name of the designer, fashion trends, market supply, treatments etc. Nevertheless, Diamonds, Rubies, Sapphires and Emeralds still have a reputation that exceeds those of other gemstones.

Rare or unusual gemstones, generally meant to include those gemstones which occur so infrequently in gem quality that they are scarcely known except to connoisseurs, include andalusite, axinite, cassiterite, clinohumite and bixbite.

Gems prices can fluctuate heavily (such as those of Tanzanite over the years) or can be quite stable (such as those of diamonds). In general per carat prices of larger stones are higher than those of smaller stones, but popularity of certain sized stone can jade prices considerably. Typically per carat prices can range from $5/carat for a normal Amethyst to 20.000-50.000 for a collector's 3 carat pidgeon-blood almost "perfect" Ruby.

Grading

In the last two decades there has been a proliferation of certification, not only for diamonds but for gemstones as well. There are five [2] major laboratories which grade and provide reports on gemstones.

  • Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
  • American Gemological Society (AGS) is not as widely recognized nor as old as the GIA but garners a high reputation.
  • American Gem Trade Laboratory which is part of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) the largest trade organization of jewelers and dealers of colored stones
  • American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) which was recently taken over by "Collector's Universe" a NASDAQ listed company which specializes in certification of many collectables such as coins and stamps
  • European Gemological Laboratory (EGL).

Although certification can provide certainty and clarity, each laboratory has its own methodology to evaluate gemstones; grading experience is different and depending on the cert required each lab approaches these issues differently. Consequently a stone can be called "pink" by one lab while another lab calls it "Padparadscha". One lab can conclude a stone is untreated, while another lab concludes that it is heat treated. [2] Countries of origin has sometimes been difficult to find agreement on due to the constant discovery of new locations. Gem labs need time to study them. Moreover determining a "country of origin" does not have the exact scientific methods at its disposal as other aspects of a gem (such as cut, clarity etc.)

Gem dealers are fully aware of the differences between gem laboratories and will make use of the discrepancies to obtain the best possible cert . One such example is to make use of the differences in "Country of Origin": a sapphire from Kashmir (celebrated for its cornflower blue color) commands four times the price of the same stone from Ceylon and twice the price if the stone were from Burma.

Cutting and polishing

A few gemstones are used as gems in the crystal or other form in which they are found. Most however, are cut and polished for usage as gemstones. The two main classifications are stones cut as smooth, dome shaped stones called cabochons, and stones which are cut with a faceting machine by polishing small flat windows called facets at regular intervals at planned angles.

Stones which are opaque such as opal, turquoise, variscite, etc. are commonly cut as cabochons. These gems are designed to show the stone's color or surface properties as in opal and star sapphires. Grinding wheels and polishing agents are used to grind, shape and polish the smooth dome shape of the stones.

Gems which are transparent are normally faceted, a method which shows the optical properties of the stone’s interior to its best advantage by maximizing reflected light which is perceived by the viewer as sparkle. The facets must be cut at the proper angles, which varies depending on the optical properties of the gem. If the angles are too steep or too shallow, the light will pass through and not be reflected back toward the viewer. Special equipment, a faceting machine, is used to hold the stone onto a flat lap for cutting and polishing the flat facets. Rarely, some cutters use special curved laps to cut and polish curved facets.

Gemstone color

Color is the most obvious and attractive feature of gemstones. The color of any material is due to the nature of light itself. Daylight, often called white light, is actually a mixture of different colors of light. When light passes through a material, some of the light may be absorbed, while the rest passes through. The part that isn't absorbed reaches our eye as white light minus the absorbed colors. A ruby appears red because it absorbs all the other colors of white light - blue, yellow, green, etc. - except red.

The same material can exhibit different colors. For example ruby and sapphire have the same chemical composition (both are corundum) but exhibit different colors. Even the same gemstone can occur in many different colors: sapphires show different shades of blue and pink and "fancy sapphires" exhibit a whole range of other colors from yellow to orange-pink, the latter called "Padparadscha sapphire".

This difference in color is based on the atomic structure of the stone. Although the different stones formally have the same chemical composition, they are not exactly the same. Every now and then an atom is replaced by a completely different atom (and this could be as few as one in a million atoms). These so called impurities are sufficient to absorb certain colors and leave the other colors unaffected.

As an example: beryl, which is colorless in its pure mineral form, becomes emerald with chromium impurities. If you add manganese instead of chromium, beryl becomes pink morganite. With iron, it becomes aquamarine.

Several gemstone treatments actually make use of the fact that these impurities can be "manipulated", thus changing the color of the gem.

Treatments applied to gemstones

Gemstones are often treated to enhance the color or clarity of the stone. Depending on the type and extent of treatment, they can affect the value of the stone. Some treatments are used widely and accepted in practice because the resulting gem is stable, while others are not accepted most commonly because the gem color is unstable and may revert to the original tone.

Heat

Heat can improve gemstone color or clarity. Most Citrine is made by heating amethyst, and partial heating with a strong gradient results in ametrine - a stone partly amethyst and partly citrine. Much Aquamarine is heat treated to remove yellow tones and give a purer blue. Nearly all Tanzanite is heated to low temperatures to remove brown undertones and give a more desirable blue/purple color. A considerable portion of all sapphire and ruby is treated with high heat to improve both color and clarity.

Radiation

Most blue topaz, both the lighter and the darker blue shades such as "London" blue, has been irradiated to change the color from white to blue. Some improperly handled gems which do not pass through normal legal channels may have a slight residual radiation, though strong requirements on imported stones are in place to ensure public safety. Most greened quartz (Oro Verde) is also irradiated to achieve the yellow-green color.

Waxing/oiling

Emeralds contain natural fissures that are sometimes filled with wax or oil to disguise them. This wax or oil is also colored to make the emerald appear of better color as well as clarity. Turquoise is also commonly treated in a similar manner.


Fracture Filling

Fracture filling has been in use with different gemstones such as Diamonds, Emeralds, Sapphires. More recently (in 2006) "Glass Filled Rubies" received a lot of publicity. Rubies over 10 carat (2 g), particularly sold in the Asian market with large fractures were filled with Lead Glass, thus dramatically improving the appearance of larger Rubies in particular. Such treatments are still fairly easy to detect.

Synthetic and artificial gemstones

Some gemstones are manufactured to imitate other gemstones. For example, cubic zirconia is a synthetic diamond simulant composed of zirconium oxide. The imitations copy the look and color of the real stone but possess neither their chemical nor physical characteristics. However, true synthetic gemstones are not necessarily imitation. For example, diamonds, ruby, sapphires and emeralds have been manufactured in labs, which possess very nearly identical chemical and physical characteristics to the naturally occurring variety. Synthetic corundums, including ruby and sapphire, are very common and they cost only a fraction of the natural stones. Smaller synthetic diamonds have been manufactured in large quantities as industrial abrasives for many years. Only recently, larger synthetic diamonds of gemstone quality, especially of the colored variety, have been manufactured.

Where are diamonds found



Do you want to know where is diamond found in the Earth? Here is the map. Diamond africa, pure diamond, map of diamond

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The Beautiful Company – Diamond Information sheet

What Are Diamonds

Natural diamonds are pure carbon, formed into crystals deep below the earths crust millions of years ago. Diamonds are found and mined in several parts of the world but predominantly in South Africa. Diamonds are the hardest natural substance known to man and when found they are far from the cut and polished gemstones you will see in our diamond rings and are known as “rough diamonds”. The diamonds used in our diamond jewellery have been sourced from specialist cutting and polishing centres all over the world, and we warrant that no diamonds known as “conflict diamonds” are knowingly sold and to the best of our ability we have undertaken measures to prevent their sale including obtaining written assurances from all our suppliers that all our diamond jewellery is conflict free.

What are “Conflict Diamonds”

In 1998 it was discovered that UNITA, a rebel group in Angola was funding its war against a legitimate government by the control and sale of rough diamonds, these have since been known as “conflict diamonds” and rebel groups in Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of Congo also funded conflicts in this way. At its peak the trade in conflict diamonds was estimated to be less than 4% of annual rough diamond production and is now estimated to be less than 1%. But we believe that one diamond traded in this way is one too many, hence our efforts to get written assurances from all our suppliers that all our jewellery including our diamond solitaire and diamond eternity rings is conflict free.

BUYING GUIDE – Diamond Rings, Diamond Pendants, Diamond Earrings

4Cs of Diamonds are Cut, Clarity, Carat, and Colour

When buying a diamond ring, diamond pendant or diamond earrings from The Beautiful Company the prices we charge for a particular ring depends on the interplay of all the 4Cs, Cut, Clarity, Carat, and Colour of the diamond and the amount and type of metal used in the setting.

The 4Cs are used throughout the world to classify the rarity of diamonds. Diamonds with the combination of the highest 4C ratings are more rare and, consequently, more expensive. No one C is more important than another in terms of beauty and it is important to note that each of the 4Cs will not diminish in value over time.

Once you have established those 4C characteristics that are most important to you then look on the site and find the diamond solitaire ring or diamond eternity ring that best meets your desires in terms of price and quality. The 4C’s are explained below.

CARAT

Carat is a measure of the weight of a diamond or with diamond rings, diamond pendants or diamond earrings it’s also used to describe the total weight of diamonds the item has.
Carat is often confused with size even though it is actually a measure of weight. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. One carat can also be divided into 100 "points." A .75 carat diamond is the same as a 75-points or 3/4 carat diamond.

A 1-carat diamond costs exactly twice the price of a half-carat diamond, right? Wrong. Since larger diamonds are found less frequently in nature, which places them at the rarest level of the Diamond Quality Pyramid, a 1-carat diamond will cost more than twice a 1/2-carat diamond (assuming colour, clarity and cut remain constant). This also means a 1 carat diamond solitaire ring will be more expensive than a 1 carat diamond eternity ring, diamond trilogy ring or a diamond eternity ring that contains more than one diamond, providing the clarity of the diamond solitaire ring is equivalent to that of the others.

CLARITY

Clarity Refers to the presence of inclusions or imperfections in a diamond.

Every diamond and therefore every diamond ring is unique. Nature ensures that each diamond is as individual as the person who wears it. Naturally-occurring features known as inclusions provide a special fingerprint within the stone. Inclusions are natural identifying characteristics such as minerals or fractures, appearing while diamonds are formed in the earth. They may look like tiny crystals, clouds or feathers.

To view inclusions, jewellers use a magnifying loupe. This tool allows jewellers to see a diamond at 10x its actual size so that inclusions are easier to see. The position of inclusions can affect the value of a diamond. There are very few flawless diamonds found in nature, thus these diamonds are much more valuable.

Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection, known as clarity, which was established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The clarity scale, ranging from F (Flawless) to Included (I), is based on the visibility of inclusions at a magnification of 10x.

Some inclusions can be hidden by a mounting, thus having little effect on the beauty of a diamond. An inclusion in the middle or top of a diamond could impact the dispersion of light, sometimes making the diamond less brilliant.

The greater a diamond's clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is and the higher it is on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.


Clarity

Description

FL - IF

Flawless/internally flawless

VVS1 - VVS2

Very, very small inclusions, very hard to locate under a 10x, unable to see with the unaided eye

VS1- VS2

Very small inclusions, hard to locate under a 10x, unable to see with the unaided eye

SI1 - SI2

Slight inclusions, easy to locate under a 10x, but unable to see with the unaided eye

I1 I2 I3

Inclusions – which can be visible to the unaided eye – collectively known as P Clarity

COLOUR

Colour Refers to the degree to which a diamond is colourless.

Diamonds are found in almost every colour of the rainbow, but white-coloured diamonds remain most popular.

Diamonds are graded on a colour scale established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) which ranges from D (colourless) to Z. Warmer coloured diamonds (K­Z) are particularly desirable when set in yellow gold. Icy winter whites (D­J) look stunning set in white gold or platinum.

Colour differences are very subtle and it is very difficult to see the difference between, say, an E and an F. Therefore, colours are graded under controlled lighting conditions and are compared to a master set for accuracy.

Truly colourless stones, graded D, treasured for their rarity, are highest on the Diamond Quality Pyramid. Colour, however, ultimately comes down to personal taste. Ask a jeweller to show you a variety of colour grades next to one another to help you determine your colour preference.

Nature has also created diamonds in intense shades of blue, green, yellow, orange, pink or ­ rarest of all ­ red. These diamonds are called coloured fancies and are extremely rare and highly treasured.

Here's a grid that will help you understand the colour grades of diamonds:


Colour of Stone

Description of Colour code

D

EXCEPTIONAL WHITE

Diamond colour

E

F

RARE WHITE

Diamond colour

G

H

WHITE

Diamond colour

I

SLIGHTLY TINTED WHITE

Diamond colour

J

CUT

Cut Refers to the angles and proportions of a diamond.

Nature determines so much about a diamond, but it takes a master cutter to reveal the stone¹s true brilliance, fire and ultimate beauty.

Based on scientific formulas, a well-cut diamond will internally reflect light from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse and reflect it through the top of the stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire, thereby placing well-cut diamonds higher on the Diamond Quality Pyramid than deep or shallow-cut diamonds. Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow lose or leak light through the side or bottom, resulting in less brilliance and ultimately, value.

Cut also refers to shape round, square, pear, or heart for example. Since a round diamond is symmetrical and capable of reflecting nearly all the light that enters, it is the most brilliant of all diamond shapes and follows specific proportional guidelines.

Non-round shapes, also known as "fancy shapes", will have their own guidelines to be considered well-cut


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